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15 Nov

My saliva gland became a drippy faucet as a puddle grew at my feet.

After a good rinse, we hiked deeper into the jungle.

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By the end of the day, I was settled into my Goroka guesthouse and comfortably immersed in PNG.

The rugby field seethes with heavily greased and painted troupes.

With wild boar tusks hanging from noses, pendulous earlobes swinging chains of tree kangaroo teeth, and the rustle of thrusting grass skirts, it's a spear-chuckers' moshpit.

These colorfully woven bags — which hang from a strap around your forehead or over your shoulder — are the national luggage, used for carrying everything from coconuts to babies.

The local cuisine, hearty and simple, seems aimed at your stomach rather than your palate.